Aneityum, a high jungle covered island, was declared a point of entry of couple of months ago. Unfortunately there were no officials on the island when we arrived, but Joseph, the islander charged with recording yacht details, came to Kelebek, quickly completed the paperwork and then we all settled to lunch. We weren't cleared into Vanuatu, though we were welcome to walk and talk with the villagers.

The village of Angelcauhaut, bordering the anchorage, gains income and employment through harvesting its pine plantation and the visits of cruise-ships to Mystery Island, a small coral cay opposite.

While walking through the village we met John building a small house for family friends who were soon to arrive from Australia. It was just a small, one roomed-house with woven split-bamboo walls, thatched roof and view of the sea.

Despite being busy, John, with a kindness we were to see many times, climbed a coconut palm, chopped down 2 fronds chosen by his mother and organised his wife and sister-in-law to show me how to weave mats for the floor. We sat, wove and chatted quietly about life in the village and sailing.

Later the family could use this mat in the new house.

By now it was lunchtime and John's mother Annette offered me a plate filled with taro, carrots, island spinach, yam and little beef all cooked in coconut milk. All the vegetables came from their garden. The Ni-Vanuatu (the name Vanuatu people call themselves) basically live a subsistence lifestyle, eating what they can grow or catch, plus a little tea or coffee.  And they all looked healthy for the exercise and basic diet.

Despite living in a virtual subsistence economy, schooling is not free in Vanuatu, and by local standards it is expensive.  To earn money to pay the school fees of his two sons John has decided to work in New Zealand picking fruit. Many Ni-Vanuatu travel to New Zealand and Australia under the guest worker scheme.

We were keen to go to Tanna, both to see the volcano and to clear into Vanuatu. Unfortunately our keen-ness overcame our better judgement and having delayed one day, we set sail in winds gusting through the anchorage. Once we realised that the winds outside were even stronger it was too late to turn back.

We could only watch Tanna slip past in the haze and imagine the volcano Yasur grumbling and belching among the clouds.

The winds continued and pushed us into the shelter of the harbour at Port Vila, bustling, lively and comfortable.

Compared to the relative relaxed pace of life in Aneityum, Vila was all hustle and bustle and anchored in the bay we had front row seats. Hallelujahs bounced across the water as holy rollers shouted their message, while politicians shouted their own message in the final days before the national election.

Most Ni Vanuatu live a subsistence life, growing and eating vegatables from their gardens, fruit from their trees and catching fish or gathering shells from the reefs. Money is earned through selling copra (dried coconut meat) but the price is dropping. There are few jobs available on the islands, such as teaching and the chance to learn skills such as repairing the generators is rarely possible.

In the face of this education is not free and yet Ni Vanuatu value education and parents struggle to send their children to school. Time and again we met men who had left their island and home to work in Vila, driving a taxi for example, or who were travelling to Australia and New Zealand to pick fruit for 3 - 7 months. The money they earned picking fruit they sent home to support their families.